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Your Home's Systems and Components
Your home is made up of numerous
systems and components. Described below are the major systems and the
variations that can be found within those systems.
Structure
The structure of the home is what
gives it shape and strength. The most commonly asked questions of a
professional home inspector are related to evaluating the condition
of the structure. The two main components of the structure are the
foundation and the framing. Each of these components are critical
to providing the building with long-lasting comfort and stability.
Major defects in the structure can be very expensive to repair.
Foundations
The foundation is often seen as the
most important part of the house. It supports the entire building,
its content and the live load (the people) in it. The type of
foundation is noted and then inspected for cracks, settling, water
leaks and overall condition. Different foundations are prone to
different problems, but all foundations have the same major job; to
hold up the building. All visible and accessible portions of the
foundation are inspected for defects.
Poured Concrete Foundations
Poured concrete wall should be
steel-reinforced. The footing, when poured, will have a
V-shaped groove on the top of the footing with rebar protruding
up from the footing where it is exposed to tie into the wall
steel. The concrete wall should be at least 8" thick and it should be
poured in a single pour. The inspector will evaluate the
condition of the foundation and examine any cracks or other
defects, signs of water seepage, etc. Any problems, severe or
otherwise, will be brought to the attention of the buyer and
recommendations will be made to correct these problems.
Cement Block Foundations
Concrete blocks, usually referred to as CMUs or concrete masonry
units, are used as basement walls as well as retaining and crawl
space walls. Regardless of the end use. a concrete block wall
must have a supporting footing, much like that of the poured
concrete wall. A horizontal crack in a basement wall, even it
is only a hairline crack, can be the most significant cracking
observed and the most costly to repair.
Brick Foundations
Brick foundations are usually
seen in older homes. It is no longer cost effective to install
brick foundations and this type of foundation is often not as
durable when compared to other modern installation, such as
poured concrete and cement block. A brick foundation is
installed in much the same way as a solid brick house is built
except it is below grade and rests on a solid footing. It is
not uncommon, however, that some of these foundations were not
placed on footings and now may have settled badly. Brick
foundations are inspected for particular defects that they are
prone to, such as settling, water seepage and deterioration of
the bricks themselves. Many brick foundations have been sealed
with wire mesh and cement stucco (similar to parging) giving the
foundation the look of poured concrete.
Stone Foundations
Stone foundations are usually
seen in older homes. They have seldom been used in construction
since World War II. Stone foundations can be prone to settling
and water seepage. A unique problem of stone foundations is
that the foundation itself can be the source of Radon gas, which
is an environmental hazard. This type of installation is also
prone to problems, such a settling and water seepage. Joints in
the walls wear quickly, because the stones are usually not
smooth and uniform. Shifting and settling can occur because of
the uneven nature of stone.
Slab Foundations
Slab-on-grade foundations are
used when the structure is built directly on the ground. In
this area of the country, a floating slab foundation is usually
used. A floating slab foundation is a steel-reinforced slab
poured with poured concrete walls and footing that extend down
below the frostline; usually about 42" in this area. Slab homes
are difficult to inspect because almost all of the foundation is
not visible. The inspector will carefully examine the floors of
the first story for signs of defects under the carpeting,
ceramic tile, etc.
Framing systems
The many components of the framing
system make up the support system for the floors, ceilings, walls
and roof. Most homes are constructed using lumber framing and a
small amount of metal, such as joist hangers. The basic design and
locale will dictate the type of framing used. All structures should
be built to reduce the effects of shrinkage, warping, fire and water
damage. The majority of, or sometimes the complete, framing system
is often hidden by the finishing materials on the walls, ceiling and
floors. The finished materials are inspected to see if they give
clues to defects, which may not be readily accessible.
Western Platform Framing
 Most modern residential and
light commercial designs use platform framing. The first floor
is built on top of the foundation walls like a "platform". The
walls are then constructed and raised on the platform and the
second story floor or platform is built on the raised walls.
The process is repeated for each additional floor. This type of
construction provides a safe and simple form of building. When
a slab foundation is used, then the first story walls are raised
and attached to the slab and the second floor becomes the first
"platform" of the building.
Balloon Framing
 Balloon framing is seldom used
in modern construction, but can still be found in older homes.
The wall studs start at the base of the building and are
continuous up to the attic. The floor joists are attached to
the wall studs and supported by a ribbon board. There is
limited shrinkage of wood in the balloon framing system, so
vertical settlement is reduced. Fire stops must be installed to
prevent fires from quickly spreading from floor to floor.
Post and Beam Framing
 Post and beam framing is a
style of construction most often found in rustic style homes.
It lends itself to large open areas. Post are the upright
members used to support the roof and form the walls. Beams are
the horizontal members used to tie the structure together and
support the live loads. Post and beam framing is also known as
timber framing. In this type of construction, most of the
timbers are exposed, which makes it easier for the inspector to
check for defects.
Heating System
 The heating system of a home
provides warmth and comfort for the occupants of homes in this
area. Modern heating systems use either electricity, gas or oil as
fuel. Typically, a heating plant, either a boiler, furnace or heat
pump, provides heat, which is distributed evenly on demand
throughout the house using a distribution system of ductwork for
warm air and piping for hydronic (water or steam) systems. Regular
serving by a competent heating contractor is recommended for both
safety and efficiency. Your professional inspector will run the
heating system to determine its safe operation.
Cooling System
 When describing air conditioning
equipment, inspector may discuss the high side and low side of the
system. The high and low sides of the system refer to pressure, not
physical location. The high side components include the condenser
coil, condenser fan and the compressor. The low side components are
the evaporator (or cooling) coil and expansion valve. The
compressor is the most expensive and important part of an air
conditioning system. Its purpose is to circulate the refrigerant
through the system. The compressor motor requires 220 to 240 volt
AC power. The inspector will operate the system and check for
proper cooling. Any defects or improper installation will be
reported and recommendations made. The evaporator coil is usually
located in the furnace plenum above the furnace. Its function is to
absorb heat from the air as it passes through the coil before
returning to the home. During an inspection, if the outside
temperature is below 65F, the air conditioning system cannot be
checked. If operated under these conditions, the system could be
damaged.
Electrical System
 Although electricity has a great
affect on the quality of our lives, the average home buyer has very
little knowledge about it. Your professional home inspector will
have the skills and knowledge to perform a thorough inspection on
the electrical system of your house. An inadequate electrical
system that contains overloaded circuits or defective wiring and
outlets can be a severe safety and fire hazard. The inspector will
evaluate the condition of the entire electrical system and check for
any improper wiring or hazards associated with outdated methods and
poor workmanship.
Plumbing System
 Plumbing involves the installation,
maintenance and alteration of fixtures, piping, appliances and
accessories in connection with sanitary or storm drainage systems,
venting systems and public or private water supply systems. The
plumbing system consists of three components: 1) the water supply,
2) the drain, vent and waste disposal and 3) ample fixture and
equipment. The inspector will inspect and operate all the fixtures
and run several gallons of water through the plumbing system,
checking on the overall condition of the system. Leaking pipes,
dripping valves, clogged pipes, corrosion, reversed hot and cold
water supplies, limited hot water or inadequate water pressure are
all common ailments of a poor plumbing system.
Roof Systems
Although the roof is part of the
exterior of the house, it needs special individual attention. The
roof is designed to protect the entire dwelling and its contents.
There are many roof style and finishing materials. Each style and
material needs to be inspected for leaks, defects and other
deficiencies. Roof problems that go undetected can cause serious
damage to other building components. Types of roofs and materials
are dictated by location, longevity and preference. Your inspector
will evaluate the condition of the roofing material used, note the
defects and report on the possible remaining life expectancy of the
roof surface.
Roof Styles
Most roof
styles are sloped, which
allows the roof to shed water, reduce ultraviolet exposure and
prolong the life of the roofing material. Gable and hip roofs are
the most common styles seen on homes. Each roof design is
constructed differently and has its own set of potential problems if
not installed and maintained correctly. Listed below are some of
the different roof designs.
Gable Roofs
 Gable roofs are the most
commonly seen roof around the country. Next to the flat roof,
they are the easiest to install for the builder and the can be
erected quickly using pre-fabricated truss systems. Gable roofs
are often built in combination with dormers and valley
connections. These connections, valleys and dormers will be
examined by the inspector for leaks, roof surface damage and
other defects. A gable roof is usually vented on the ends and
may also have other venting systems, such as soffit vents,
static roof vents, ridge venting and attic fans.
Hip Roofs
 Hip roofs are almost as popular
as gable roofs. Hip roofs have no valleys, unless they are
extended with different roof types. The hip rafters support the
roof sheathing at angles that eliminate valleys that can leak
and wear. When correctly installed, the hip roof design is the
most favorable for a home, because its angles help to deflect
the rain and wind from the home.
Shed Roofs
Shed roofs are merely a large
rectangular surface with a slope of 2" per foot or more. Low
sloped roofs wear out more quickly than hip or gable roofs.
Shed roofs need to be inspected closely for shifting and
sagging. The shed design does not take advantage of one side of
the roof pushing against the other, as in the gable design.
Since most shed roof have relatively low slopes, they are more
prone to leaks and they wear more quickly.
Flat Roofs
A flat roof is just like it
sounds - flat or very close to it. A flat roof has a slope of
less than 2" per foot. When used in residential construction,
this type of roof is usually prone to leaks at all penetrations,
such as vent pipe, chimneys and skylights; they also wear more
quickly and have a tendency to sag. Many extensions are
constructed using either a flat or shed style roof, because
non-professionals install them. Flat roofs are often the
inspector's biggest concern when they arrive at the house. Your
inspector will suspect problems related to a flat roof before he
goes inside the house, because flat roofs almost always leak.
Roof Coverings
There are many different types of
roof coverings. Each one must be installed properly and they have
different life expectancies. Particular roof coverings are chosen
for a building based on the climate of the area. The roof
inspection is one of the most important parts of the inspection
process. The inspector will check the surface for any signs of
visible wear of damage. Other than end of life issues, bad
installations are the most common reasons for roof failures.
Asphalt Shingles
Asphalt shingles are the most
popular roofing material. They are used on approximately 75% of
all residential construction. They are relatively inexpensive,
easy to install and require little maintenance. They come in a
wide variety of colors and designs and can last between 15 to 30
years, depending on their construction. Another advantage of
asphalt shingles is that a second layer can be installed after
the first has worn out. While this can be done, the home owner
needs to be aware of two things: 1) applying the second layer
may void the manufacturer's warranty and 2) the life
expectancy of the new roof may be reduced by 50%. Asphalt
shingles are sometimes installed over old wood shingles and
sometimes even old slate roofs. This is not considered go
practice and can lead to a myriad of problems.
Wood Shingles
The life expectancy of wood
shingles or shakes is about 25 to 30 years; some can last up to
50 years. This type of roofing is more expensive than asphalt
shingles, but they are popular because of the rustic
appearance. It is recommended not to install untreated wood
shingles and shakes in areas where heat and humidity are very
high because this type of roofing is very susceptible to decay
from moss, mildew and fungus. Treated shingles should be
installed on roofs that are shaded by overhanging trees, because
the shade will keep the roof wet for long periods of time.
Slate Roofing
Slate is generally considered a
more expensive type of roofing material. It costs more to buy,
it takes longer to install and some slates, being thicker, weigh
more and require a stronger supporting structure. If well
built, a slate roof can have a life expectancy of more than 50
years. A slate roof is also fireproof and waterproof. Your
inspector will check for proper installation and any signs of
defect.
Tile Roofing
A well constructed clay or
cement tile roof should last more than 50 years. Tiles roofs
are also an expensive roof due to the cost of the tile,
installation and the stronger supporting structure. The tile
roof is fireproof, so your fire insurance should cost less for
the entire life of the building. Clay and cement tiles are
similar in their properties and installation methods. Concrete
is cheaper to make than clay, since they can be made anywhere.
Clay tile need to be made near a clay quarry, so freight costs
to the building site make them more expensive than cement tile.
Asphalt Rolled Roofing
Asphalt rolled roofing should
only be used on flat or very low slope roofs. This material has
a low life expectancy of 10 years and needs ongoing
maintenance. The seams should be inspected periodically,
because the roof surface is prone to damage caused by water
ponding and ice in northern climates. Besides wearing out
quickly, these roofs are often installed poorly.
Exterior
 The exterior of the home includes:
siding, trim, gutters and downspouts, windows, roof, garage, stoops,
decks, balconies, patios, grounds and related items. These items
are inspected not only for their condition, but also for how they
relate to the building. Defects in exterior components, like siding
and windows, can greatly affect other components of the home.
Exterior Coverings
Siding is the "skin" of your
house. The siding is one of the most important and possibly
expensive components. The type of siding chosen is based on
appearance, life expectancy, maintenance and cost. There are many
types of siding: vinyl, aluminum, wood, stone, synthetic stucco and
brick. Each material has its advantages and disadvantages, which
require different maintenance procedures. The inspector will
identify the type of siding and check for defects.
Vinyl Siding
 This is the most popular siding
for new homes and for refinishing existing homes. Vinyl siding
is durable, easy to install and very low maintenance. The
inspector will look at the siding to make sure that it is not
installed too tightly, which can cause buckling, but secure
enough to prevent water penetration.
Aluminum Siding
 Aluminum siding began to appear
in the early 60s. This new product experienced occasional
corrosion problems, especially in areas of high humidity or
salty ocean winds. Aluminum siding is still used today, but it
is not nearly as popular as vinyl. Aluminum siding dents easily
and it is difficult to replace. Cosmetic repairs to aluminum
siding can be costly.
Brick
 Brick is a durable and good
looking exterior for a home. When installed properly, it has an
unlimited life span. Most modern installations are a veneer
application rather than the solid brick of years past. Veneer
installations are a single row of bricks tied to the house using
metal tie strips. Solid brick is found in older homes with two
rows of bricks held together by a bond course every few rows.
Masonry installations must have weep holes at their base to
allow moisture to escape. A common mistake by some homeowners
is to cover these weep holes. This can cause extensive hidden
damage to the structure behind the brick. The inspector will
look for proper installation and maintenance.
Synthetic Stucco
 Synthetic stucco, also referred
to as E.I.F.S., consists of a polymer-based laminate that is
applied wet to rigid insulation board that is fastened to the
wall with adhesive, mechanical fasteners or both. Since the
coating repels water very well, problems arise when moisture
gets behind the coating and is trapped inside the wall. This
trapped moisture eventually rots insulation, sheathing and wood
framing and it can be the source of mold in the walls.
Cement Stucco
 Cement stucco is a very durable
covering. It can be applied directly to a cement block wall or
the wire mesh lath. Cement stucco should not be confused with
E.I.F.S. It is not nearly as prone to water damage associated
with the synthetic installations. Cement stucco can be prone to
cracking and surface damage. The inspector will identify
whether or not the home has a real cement stucco surface and
determine its condition.
Wood shingles
 Wood shingles and shakes
require ongoing maintenance, such as staining and replacement of
loose or worn shingles. The installation of a waterproof
barrier under the siding is crucial for the protection of the
exterior wall sheathing. Wood shingles are a more expensive and
time consuming installation than aluminum or vinyl siding. Your
inspector will examine both the quality of the materials and the
current condition of the siding.
Wood Clapboard
Siding
 Wood
clapboard siding is a traditional horizontal lap siding used for years before aluminum
and vinyl siding came into being. It is a durable material,
when properly maintained. There are homes on the East Coast
that are over 200 years old, that still have this type of
siding. That's because it is made from cedar or redwood.
Because these are softwoods, they dent and gouge more easily.
The inspector will check to see if the siding has been properly
maintained.
Stone
 Stone siding is probably the
oldest siding material used for home construction. There are
many home in New England that were constructed entirely of field
stone; stone that were plowed up by the farmers as they prepared
their field for planting. Many newer homes that have "stone"
siding actually use synthetic stone, a man-made substitute.
These newer installation are veneer installation where the stone
are attached to the building by bonding the stone to a scratch
coat of mortar.
Gutters and Downspouts
 Gutters and downspouts are installed on sloped roofs
to collect rain water at the lower edges of the roof, channel it to
the downspouts and then direct it away from the foundation. During
a normal rain storm, hundreds of gallons of water can fall on your
roof and you need to keep it out of your basement. The most
important part of the gutter system is the extension on the end of
the downspout. It should direct the water
AT
LEAST 6 FEET
from the foundation; more if the property is relatively flat. Many
home owners repair or replace the gutter and downspouts before they
put their house up for sale, but damage to the soffit and fascia
boards may have already occurred. Your home inspector will inform
you what is in need of repair or replacement as well as the effect
of the existing system on the home.
Windows
 There are many types of windows and materials used to
make them. Most windows are made of wood, aluminum, steel, vinyl or
combinations thereof. Window come in various styles: single hung,
double hung, casement, sliding, awning, hopper and Jalousie. They
can be single, double or triple glazed. The inspector will examine
the age, quality, installation and overall condition of the windows
and trim. Sometimes older windows, even though they may be in
excellent condition, should be replaced just to improve the energy
efficiency of the home. One of the most dramatic effects on heating
and cooling expenses is to replace old or poor quality windows.
Skylights installed after a roof has been installed almost always
leaks! These leaks can cause extensive damage to the surrounding
structure and go undetected for years.
Chimneys
Chimneys are used to exhaust
dangerous gases from the home. These gases are produced by the
furnace, water heater and fireplaces. Many people overlook the
importance of the chimney as it relates to the safety of the house
and the cost of repairing or replacing it. Old chimneys often need
to be relined or have the mortar joints repaired (called pointing).
In some older homes, there are often abandoned chimneys from old
heating systems or disconnected fireplaces. Your professional
inspector will inspect the visible and accessible areas of the
chimney and report to you the suggested improvements and
maintenance, which may be required to prevent deterioration of the
chimney itself or the surrounding structure.
Garages
 Garages, whether attached or
detached, are inspected in the same manner as the house. The
inspector will check the roof, exterior and interior which have the
same potential for problems as the house. The inspector will also
look for safety hazards that are found only in this area. He will
also check for fire or explosion hazards and the safety of the
garage door opener.
Grounds
 The grounds surrounding the home
include such items as: property grading for proper drainage, patios,
landscaping, retaining walls and the maintenance of tree, bushes and
shrubs. All of the soil surrounding the house must be sloped so
that water runs AWAY from the building. Tree, bushes
and shrubs must be trimmed back so they don rub on the exterior of
the house or come too close to the air conditioning unit.
Interior
 The interior of the home includes
all the rooms and related items that are not covered in other
aspects of the inspection on the interior of the home. The
professional inspector will go through each and every room,
including all the visible and accessible areas of the home. This
inspection will reveal symptoms of larger problems since they are
often visible in the various rooms. Settling can be noticed in the
walls and floors. Roof or plumbing leaks may be noticed on the
ceiling. Most cosmetic items, such as old paint or worn carpeting,
are not important, but they may indicate a general lack of
maintenance. When a home is in need of a lot of cosmetic work, your
inspector has already seen a red flag. An older home with new
carpeting and paint throughout is often a home that was neglected
until it was put up for sale.
Bathrooms
 Bathrooms can be one of most
expensive areas to replace or refurbish. With simple maintenance,
such as caulking and grouting of tubs and showers, expensive repairs
can be avoided. An item as small as a dripping valve inside a wall
that is left unrepaired can be the difference between a $500 upgrade
and a $5,000 one. The inspector will check all areas including the
tub and shower areas and around the toilet. These areas are more
prone to hidden water damage. The inspector will advise you of
visible defects and alert you to potential hidden defects such as
leaking shower pans.
Kitchens
 Kitchens, which were installed
using sub-standard materials and products, will be a source of
expensive future upgrades. It is normal to spend tens of thousands
of dollars to install an upgraded kitchen. Recent cosmetic repairs
will be looked at to determine if the work was done to mask a more
serious problem. The inspector will look for water damage around
the sink, dishwasher and refrigerator.
Walls and
Ceilings
 Your professional inspector will be
on the alert to check for areas where it appears that load-bearing
walls have been altered or removed. Ceilings are inspected for
leaks from plumbing or roofs as well as for safe installations.
Heavy old plaster ceilings can be a hazard when cracked and worn.
Floors are, of course, looked at for sagging or unevenness. The
majority of the home’s most important parts are between the floors,
ceilings and walls, and they are not visible for inspection.
Attic
 The attic is the upper most portion
of the house, but it still is part of the interior. Attics are
sometimes used by homeowners for storage or sometimes finished and
used as additional living space. When an attic is unfinished, the
inspector can inspect for the quality of construction, the
insulation, water penetration, ventilation, pest and any exposed
electrical hazards.
Attic
Insulation
 Insulation in the attic retards
the transfer of heat from the house into the attic in the winter
and the heat from the attic into the house during the summer.
One of the least expensive and most effective ways to reduce
cooling and heating costs is by having proper insulation in the
attic. Most modern construction is insulated using fiberglass
batts or blown-in fiberglass. In our area of the country about
12” of insulation is optimum. Less will allow more heat
transfer and more does not reduce heating and cooling bills
enough to be cost effective. Some older type of insulation,
such as rock wool, vermiculite and cellulose can be ineffective
and a possible fire hazard. Non-professionals will install
insulation into the soffit, which blocks the air circulation
needed in an attic. The inspector will identify the type of
insulation used, the R-value, its condition and how ell it is
installed.
Sheathing
 Roof
sheathing is the boards,
plywood or OSB (oriented strand board) that is nailed to the
rafters and which acts as the support for the roofing material.
Plywood and the other materials can sustain damage if roof leaks
are not repaired or poor ventilation causes condensation. The
inspector will be looking for signs of roof leaks and
condensation damage, which can be costly to repair.
Ventilation
 Attic venting is another
inexpensive way to reduce energy costs and prolong roof life.
Many homeowners cover the attic vents in the winter to conserve
heat, but forget to remove the covers in the summer. This
causes the attic temperature to get very hot which, in turn, can
cause roof damage and add to your cooling costs. The most
effective attic ventilation system is soffit vents combined with
standard roof vent or ridge venting.
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